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171 results found
- How can brands work to reduce their plastic footprint?
More consumers now consider the environmental impact of their product choices. Companies can increase the reach of their customer base by switching to more sustainable forms of formulation & manufacturing that reduce the amount of microplastic waste generated. What we know: 1.3 million metric tons of microplastics (MPLs) enter the world’s oceans annually, predicted to increase to three million metric tons annually by 2040. Personal care products are responsible for only 2% of this, but are the only one classed as an intentional source of MPL loss into the planet’s waterways through inclusion of ingredients like microbeads (Statista 2023; Boucher & Friot 2017). Exposure to MPLs are linked to shifts in skin microbiome composition associated with loss of diversity & dysbiosis in marine animals. Entry of MPLs into human skin may cause inflammation, cell death & oxidative stress (Schirinzi et al., 2017). Formulations containing ingredients like polyethylene microbeads (now banned in several countries e.g. UK & US) and other synthetic polymers are the biggest sources of cosmetic MPLs (Leslie 2014). Degradation of plastic packaging is also a major source of secondary microplastics entering the environment from landfills and waste management facilities (Cubas et al., 2022). Some steps to reduce plastic footprints includes using biopolymers such as cellulose & polylactic acid as biodegradable alternatives to plastic packaging or substituting plastic ingredients with natural alternatives like plant lectins as an alternative to petroleum-derived preservatives, bacterial cellulose instead of polypropylene emulsifiers/thickeners, and microalgae in place of plastic UV filters (Cubas et al., 2022). Industry impact & potential: 81% of consumers believe cosmetic brands should actively reduce plastic package use, and with this change many companies have embraced low plastic practices to reduce waste. Food for Skin | B Corp has dedicated years of research into developing organic, all natural skincare formulations free of parabens and microplastics. Aveda has also taken steps to reduce waste generated from plastic packaging and ingredient formulations by using post-consumer recycled materials and bioplastics in their packaging. Our solution: As a testing company, Sequential has made its efforts to support the industry’s shift to an environmentally friendly business model, working closely with eco-conscious brands and reducing the amount of lab plastic waste. Sequential has also co-launched the industry’s first at-home consumer microbiome test with multiple international partners in the hopes of encouraging consumers to test their skin before purchasing skincare products to reduce the risk of purchasing products mismatched from their skin’s need. This allows for lower trial and error of purchasing products, resulting in less waste of skincare products. References: Boucher, Julien & Friot, Damien. (2017). Primary Microplastics in the Oceans: A Global Evaluation of Sources. 10.2305/IUCN.CH.2017.01.en. Cubas ALV, Bianchet RT, Reis IMASd, Gouveia IC. Plastics and Microplastic in the Cosmetic Industry: Aggregating Sustainable Actions Aimed at Alignment and Interaction with UN Sustainable Development Goals. Polymers . 2022; 14(21):4576. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym14214576 Leslie, H.A. (2014) Review of Microplastics in Cosmetics. Institute of Environmental Studies, VU University, Amsterdam. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.marpolbul.2016.05.046 Schirinzi GF, Pérez-Pomeda I, Sanchís J, Rossini C, Farré M, Barceló D. Cytotoxic effects of commonly used nanomaterials and microplastics on cerebral and epithelial human cells. Environ Res. 2017 Nov;159:579-587. doi: 10.1016/j.envres.2017.08.043. Epub 2017 Sep 11. PMID: 28898803. Statista. (2023). Managed and mismanaged microplastics worldwide in 2016 with a forecast to 2040 under business-as-usual scenario. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/statistics/1270661/microplastic-pollution-projections-worldwide/
- What is the potential for AI in formulation development and personalisation?
Machine learning is a field of artificial intelligence (AI), that uses complex algorithms to predict outcomes based on training datasets. Using the term “AI” has become widespread in tech companies, including now in the consumer health and beauty sphere. Machine learning and AI are used interchangeably. Companies are now looking to employ new technologies to improve the efficacy of their personal care products and aid consumers to make more informed skin care decisions. What we know: The global AI market is expected to grow twenty fold over the next decade from 200bn USD to nearly two trillion USD by 2030. (Statistia, 2023) Following this trend, global cosmetic AI is currently valued at 3.22B USD and expected to grow by 19.6% between 2023 and 2031 to reach 15.75B USD 80% of American Gen Zs and 68.3% of European Gen Z are willing to trust AI for skincare recommendations (InsightAce Analytic 2023; Statistia, 2022ab) AI models are thought to be capable of predicting the sensitising potential of ingredients with an accuracy of 86%, sensitivity of 80%, and specificity of 90% using their physicochemical characteristics and previous data on animal and in vitro models, showing the potential of this technology to be used when developing formulations that remain true to life (Kalicińska et al., 2023) The surge in ‘generative AI’ has been implemented in formulation development and is thought to predict the effects of ingredients and their interactions on the skin, to a reasonable degree, especially for particular skin concerns (Vatiwutipong et al., 2023) AI could be used to make predictions of how skin might change over time and make suggestions accordingly, increasing consumer temporal awareness of their skin condition (Gilliland 2023) Industry impact & potential: Companies are turning to AI to provide detailed skin analysis for individuals to tailor their products specifically to their skin needs. Shiseido’s skincare advisor assesses the quality of an individual's skin in under two minutes drawing from their database of 30,000 images to provide specialised skincare recommendations. Haut.AI ’s Skin SaaS system evaluates an individual's face based on multiple skin metrics including acne condition, hydration, and wrinkling to recommend products based on current and future predictions of skin. Our solution: For AI to be used effectively in the microbiome world, we need to train machine learning algorithms on high quality datasets as a starting point. At Sequential, we have collected nearly 20,000 skin microbiome samples, and the effect of hundreds of formulations containing over 4,000 ingredients. Our next step is to leverage this database for novel biomarkers, and formulations for certain skin demographics. We also have an expert team in the microbiome and AI field, including our advisor Prof Eran Segal who is experienced with big microbiome datasets. References: InsightAce Analytic. (2023). 80% of American Gen Zs and 68.3% of European Gen Z are willing to trust AI for skincare recommendations. Retrieved from Kalicińska J, Wiśniowska B, Polak S, Spiewak R. Artificial Intelligence That Predicts Sensitizing Potential of Cosmetic Ingredients with Accuracy Comparable to Animal and In Vitro Tests-How Does the Infotechnomics Compare to Other "Omics" in the Cosmetics Safety Assessment? Int J Mol Sci. 2023 Apr 6;24(7):6801. doi: 10.3390/ijms24076801. PMID: 37047774; PMCID: PMC10094956. Statista. (2022a). 80% of American Gen Zs and 68.3% of European Gen Z are willing to trust AI for skincare recommendations. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/statistics/1289772/gen-z-s-trust-in-ai-beauty-advisors-in-north-america/ Statista. (2023). The global AI market is expected to grow twenty fold over the next decade from 200bn USD to nearly two trillion USD by 2030. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/outlook/tmo/artificial-intelligence/worldwide Vatiwutipong, Pat & Vachmanus, Sirawich & Noraset, Thanapon & Tuarob, Suppawong. (2023). Artificial Intelligence in Cosmetic Dermatology: A Systematic Literature Review. IEEE Access. PP. 1-1. 10.1109/ACCESS.2023.3295001.
- Could neurocosmetics be a solution to ageing skin?
Neurocosmetics is an emergent practice in the personal care space focusing on the connection between the nervous system and skin when designing formulations for products. Neurocosmetic ingredients have the capacity to influence the chemical and electrical modes of communication between the brain and skin to deliver more effective products and treatments when considering skin response to ageing. What we know: The close connection between the skin and nervous system means the two share similar physiological functions (i.e., thermoregulation, sebaceous secretion and melanogenesis) allowing them to communicate using neuropeptides and nerve impulses and respond to environmental stimuli e.g. chemicals, ultraviolet light rays, and temperature (Rizzi et al., 2021; Glatte et al., 2019). Neurocosmetics have the capacity to affect the brain’s response to topical skincare treatments to increase their effectiveness and can act through various means such as botulinum-like peptides (i.e., hexapeptides or plant extracts) acting on cutaneous nerves to relax facial muscles & avoid wrinkle formation (Rizzi et al., 2021). Achillea millefolium extract upregulates the expression of nervous skin receptors that decrease during the ageing process, with results showing increased epidermal thickness post-administration, and improved appearance of wrinkles and pores after 2 months of treatment (Pain et al., 2011) Chronic exposure to environmental stress can trigger enhanced cortisol production by the brain, leading to immunosuppression, inflammation, impaired barrier function, and increased DNA damage in the skin. Application of an active inhibitor against the 11β-HSD1 enzyme rebalances these levels by blocking the cortisol synthesis pathway (Chen & Lyga, 2014; Imfeld et al., 2018). Industry impact & potential: Many companies have started formulating their own active ingredients for sale and use by other brands looking to amplify the efficacy of their formulations. SEPPIC’s range of neurocosmetic ingredients emphasise the use of amino acid and plant extract compounds to protect the skin from stressors like antioxidants, inflammation, and anti-matrix metalloproteinase action. Givaudan’s active ingredient range includes Neurophroline® that works to break down cortisol production by releasing a calming neuropeptide that improves skin tone and anti-ageing effect. Our Solution: Sequential provides invivo Gold Standard testing of ingredient effect on the microbial, as well as physical properties of skin, with a specialist angle in the skin ageing market. Our service offers clients clinical studies to test the efficacy of your neurocosmetic ingredients or formulations on age parameters like corneometry and elasticity. We are also able to offer formulation support and INCI list examination to assess the effectiveness of your solutions for targeting ageing skin concerns. References: Chen Y, Lyga J. Brain-skin connection: stress, inflammation and skin aging. Inflamm Allergy Drug Targets. 2014;13(3):177-90. doi: 10.2174/1871528113666140522104422. PMID: 24853682; PMCID: PMC4082169. Glatte P, Buchmann SJ, Hijazi MM, Illigens BM, Siepmann T. Architecture of the Cutaneous Autonomic Nervous System. Front Neurol. 2019 Sep 10;10:970. doi: 10.3389/fneur.2019.00970. PMID: 31551921; PMCID: PMC6746903. Imfeld, D & Jackson, Eileen & Seroul, Pierre. (2018). Inhibition of cutaneous cortisol activation: A novel approach to protect skin from stress induced damage and aging.. Pain S, Altobelli C, Boher A, Cittadini L, Favre-Mercuret M, Gaillard C, Sohm B, Vogelgesang B, André-Frei V. Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Dec;33(6):535-42. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00667.x. Epub 2011 Jun 29. PMID: 21711463. Rizzi V, Gubitosa J, Fini P, Cosma P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics . 2021; 8(3):66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
- Why does strain matter when testing ingredients?
Most bacterial species do not fall exclusively under the umbrella of mutualists or pathogens, with many possessing strains that lie across a continuum between the two extreme states. It is important to consider the effect of this when devising formulations to treat common skin disorders as the same ingredients used against pathogenic strains can wipe out beneficial populations helping to maintain skin health. What we know: The phylotype I strain of Cutibacterium acnes is more commonly associated with diseases such as acne vulgaris. It forms biofilms and secretes adhesion proteins that allow them to attach and invade neighbouring skin cells, causing disruption of the epithelial barrier and increasing risk of inflammation and infection (Spittaels et al., 2020). Other more beneficial strains of Cutibacterium acnes like type II instead secrete anti-inflammatory molecules, modulate the immune system, prevent colonisation by pathogens, and provide antioxidant activity to keep the skin healthy (Yu et al., 2016; Ahle et al., 2023). Staphylococcus epidermidis strains of Staphylococcus protect the skin by synthesising lantibiotics that target and kill more virulent strains like S. aureus, secreting enzymes that degrade pathogen biofilms, and releasing pheromones that restrict their ability to colonise and invade the skin (Cogen & Gallo 2008; Byrd et al., 2018). S. aureus releases virulence factors interfering with the cutaneous immune system (e.g., inflammation, white blood cell activation), secretes enzymes that damage skin tissue, and brings about dysbiotic changes to the skin’s normal microflora to trigger skin conditions like atopic dermatitis (Cogen & Gallo 2008; Geoghegan et al., 2018; Kobayashi et al., 2015). Cross-species strain interactions also control virulent populations. Corynebacterium accolens prevents Streptococcus pneumoniae from growing on the skin by generating fatty acids that make the external environment uninhabitable for it (Bomar et al., 2016). Industry Impact & potential: Prebiotics and phage therapies are now being considered as alternatives to traditional antibiotics for treating skin disorders owing to their greater level of strain specificity during treatment. Some brands are using ingredients containing C. acnes phages to target pathogenic strains while allowing healthy strains to persist. Other brands are also using prebiotic products to selectively promote the growth of good bacteria while restricting growth of harmful ones. Our solution: Sequential is able to offer invivo strain-specific testing of your product on the skin to help distinguish between the effects of your product on good and bad bacteria. Our experienced panel of experts can also help brands develop personalised formulations that act against bad bacteria while maintaining the good to maximise the effects of your ingredients and prevent any unwanted dysbiotic effects. References: Ahle CM, Feidenhansl C, Brüggemann H. Cutibacterium acnes. Trends Microbiol. 2023 Apr;31(4):419-420. doi: 10.1016/j.tim.2022.10.006. Epub 2022 Oct 31. PMID: 36328874. Bomar L, Brugger SD, Yost BH, Davies SS, Lemon KP. Corynebacterium accolens Releases Antipneumococcal Free Fatty Acids from Human Nostril and Skin Surface Triacylglycerols. mBio. 2016 Jan 5;7(1):e01725-15. doi: 10.1128/mBio.01725-15. PMID: 26733066; PMCID: PMC4725001. Byrd, A., Belkaid, Y. & Segre, J. The human skin microbiome. Nat Rev Microbiol 16, 143–155 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro.2017.157 Cogen AL, Nizet V, Gallo RL. Skin microbiota: a source of disease or defence? Br J Dermatol. 2008 Mar;158(3):442-55. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08437.x. PMID: 18275522; PMCID: PMC2746716. Geoghegan JA, Irvine AD, Foster TJ. Staphylococcus aureus and Atopic Dermatitis: A Complex and Evolving Relationship. Trends Microbiol. 2018 Jun;26(6):484-497. doi: 10.1016/j.tim.2017.11.008. Epub 2017 Dec 9. PMID: 29233606. Kobayashi T, Glatz M, Horiuchi K, Kawasaki H, Akiyama H, Kaplan DH, Kong HH, Amagai M, Nagao K. Dysbiosis and Staphylococcus aureus Colonization Drives Inflammation in Atopic Dermatitis. Immunity. 2015 Apr 21;42(4):756-66. doi: 10.1016/j.immuni.2015.03.014. PMID: 25902485; PMCID: PMC4407815. Spittaels KJ, Ongena R, Zouboulis CC, Crabbé A, Coenye T. Cutibacterium acnes Phylotype I and II Strains Interact Differently With Human Skin Cells. Front Cell Infect Microbiol. 2020 Nov 16;10:575164. doi: 10.3389/fcimb.2020.575164. PMID: 33330124; PMCID: PMC7717938. Yu Y, Lu L, Sun J, Petrof EO, Claud EC. Preterm infant gut microbiota affects intestinal epithelial development in a humanized microbiome gnotobiotic mouse model. Am J Physiol Gastrointest Liver Physiol. 2016 Sep 1;311(3):G521-32. doi: 10.1152/ajpgi.00022.2016. Epub 2016 Aug 4. PMID: 27492329; PMCID: PMC5076002.
- How can personalisation be used to develop products that maintain the microbiome?
Several industries have begun looking to the use of personalisation to improve the efficacy and targeting of their products or services. Cosmetic brands can embrace this practice when developing products that maintain the microbiome to improve customer satisfaction, and gain a competitive advantage while supporting and sustaining a healthy microbiome. Outline of research: A survey conducted on 1,038 adults in the U.S. found 75% of shoppers would pay more for a personalised shopping experience (Bolt, 2023) The personalised beauty space received 1.04 billion U.S. dollars worth of investment in 2021, its size is projected to increase to 63.34 billion dollars by 2027 (Statista 2021; GlobeNewswire, 2023) The skin microbiome varies across individuals, some of the factors include: age, sex, geographical location, and genetics (Russo et al., 2023; Kim et al., 2021; Robert et al., 2022; Gupta et al., 2017; Si et al., 2015; Wang et al., 2021) Use of certain skin care products can shift the microbiome away from its natural composition, giving rise to disorders like dermatitis by altering the microenvironments inhabited by these populations (Bouslimani et al., 2019) Microbiome personalisation can promote the use of formulations that prioritise fermented ingredients, extracts, ceramides, and prebiotics to nourish the good bacteria of the microbiome (Dolečková et al., 2020) Determining the specific microbiome composition of skin can be used to optimise products that help control or alleviate the symptoms of dysbiotic skin disorders through the inclusion of ingredients that reduce or prevent the growth of microbes driving these conditions (Collins 2023) Industry impact and potential: More brands are considering the importance of microbiome personalisation when formulating their products. Gallinee (an industry partner of Sequential) is one of the major drivers of this philosophy through their at-home microbiome testing kit that gives consumers an in-depth breakdown and report of their skin microbiome, allowing them to make detailed personalised choices regarding their skincare routines based on their microbiomes need. Our solution: We have partnered with several companies seeking to increase the level of personalisation for their products, including industry leaders such as Gallinée Microbiome Skincare and Shiseido, to provide Gold Standard Certification for your products. Our invivo microbiome testing platform and extensive database of 18,000+ samples provides a detailed assessment of how your product interacts with, and influences the skin microbiome, and other regions of the body like the scalp, mouth, and vaginal microbiome. We also provide formulation support for your personalised skin care products, ensuring its ingredients match the needs of what your product seeks to deliver. References: Bolt. (2023, May 31). 75% of shoppers would pay more for beauty products to get personalized online shopping experiences, says new survey. PR Newswire. Retrieved from https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/75-of-shoppers-would-pay-more-for-beauty-products-to-get-personalized-online-shopping-experiences-says-new-survey-301837863.html Bouslimani A, da Silva R, Kosciolek T, Janssen S, Callewaert C, Amir A, Dorrestein K, Melnik AV, Zaramela LS, Kim JN, Humphrey G, Schwartz T, Sanders K, Brennan C, Luzzatto-Knaan T, Ackermann G, McDonald D, Zengler K, Knight R, Dorrestein PC. The impact of skin care products on skin chemistry and microbiome dynamics. BMC Biol. 2019 Jun 12;17(1):47. doi: 10.1186/s12915-019-0660-6. PMID: 31189482; PMCID: PMC6560912. Collins SL, Stine JG, Bisanz JE, Okafor CD, Patterson AD. Bile acids and the gut microbiota: metabolic interactions and impacts on disease. Nat Rev Microbiol. 2023 Apr;21(4):236-247. doi: 10.1038/s41579-022-00805-x. Epub 2022 Oct 17. PMID: 36253479. Dolečková, Iva & Čápová, Aneta & Machková, Lenka & Moravčíková, Soňa & Marešová, Markéta & Velebný, Vladimír. (2020). Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe. Skin Research and Technology. 27. 10.1111/srt.12951. GlobeNewswire (2023). Global next-generation personalized beauty market to reach $63.34 billion by 2027 . Retrieved from https://www.globenewswire.com/fr/news-release/2023/07/04/2698923/0/en/Global-Next-Generation-Personalized-Beauty-Market-to-Reach-63-34-Billion-by-2027.html Gupta VK, Paul S, Dutta C. Geography, Ethnicity or Subsistence-Specific Variations in Human Microbiome Composition and Diversity. Front Microbiol. 2017 Jun 23;8:1162. doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2017.01162. PMID: 28690602; PMCID: PMC5481955. Kim, JH., Son, SM., Park, H. et al. Taxonomic profiling of skin microbiome and correlation with clinical skin parameters in healthy Koreans. Sci Rep 11, 16269 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-95734-9 Robert C, Cascella F, Mellai M, Barizzone N, Mignone F, Massa N, Nobile V, Bona E. Influence of Sex on the Microbiota of the Human Face. Microorganisms . 2022; 10(12):2470. https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms10122470 Russo E, Di Gloria L, Cerboneschi M, Smeazzetto S, Baruzzi GP, Romano F, Ramazzotti M, Amedei A. Facial Skin Microbiome: Aging-Related Changes and Exploratory Functional Associations with Host Genetic Factors, a Pilot Study. Biomedicines. 2023 Feb 23;11(3):684. doi: 10.3390/biomedicines11030684. PMID: 36979663; PMCID: PMC10045008. Si J, Lee S, Park JM, Sung J, Ko G. Genetic associations and shared environmental effects on the skin microbiome of Korean twins. BMC Genomics. 2015 Nov 23;16:992. doi: 10.1186/s12864-015-2131-y. PMID: 26596276; PMCID: PMC4657342. Statista. (2021). Global investment in personalized beauty from 2010 to 2021 . https://www.statista.com/statistics/1268261/personalized-beauty-investment-worldwide/ Wang L, Xu YN, Chu CC, Jing Z, Chen Y, Zhang J, Pu M, Mi T, Du Y, Liang Z, Doraiswamy C, Zeng T, Wu J, Chen L. Facial Skin Microbiota-Mediated Host Response to Pollution Stress Revealed by Microbiome Networks of Individual. mSystems. 2021 Aug 31;6(4):e0031921. doi: 10.1128/mSystems.00319-21. Epub 2021 Jul 27. PMID: 34313461; PMCID: PMC8407115.
- What can algae-derived nutrients do for the skin?
Algae have been making waves recently as potential ingredients for use in the world of cosmetics, with many companies harnessing their natural abundance of bioactive compounds for use in formulating products. What we know: Algal pigments extracted from marine macroalgae (i.e., seaweed) confer antioxidant and photoprotective properties, plus antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing effects (Freitas et al., 2022; Kalasariya et al., 2022) Fucoidan extracts from seaweeds provide skin with anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and anti-atopic dermatitis properties, while essential and non-essential amino acids taken from algae improve collagen production, UV protection, and proteoglycan synthesis (Kalasariya et al., 2022) Fatty acids like eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), arachidonic acid (AA), docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) act as emollients, enhance procollagen formation, and prevent inflammation (Kalasariya et al., 2022) Oligosaccharide-zinc complexes from Laminaria digitata affect structure and function of the skin’s microbiome by reducing sebum production to limit growth of bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes linked to skin conditions such as acne vulgaris (Jesumani et al., 2019) Ethyl acetate from Fucus evanescens promotes antibacterial activity against C. acnes and methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, a microbe that exacerbates skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis (Jesumani et al., 2019; David et al., 2017) Industry impact & potential: Companies have begun using extracts of algae in sunscreen and moisturiser formulations to promote protection from UVA and UVB radiation, photo-ageing, retention, skin gloss, and emollience in an alternative non-toxic manner to synthetic compounds. Many algal carrageenans (i.e., sulphated polysaccharide) have been used as additives for shampoo formulations to promote viscosity, freeze-thaw stability, and improve overall quality. The MareVitae® line owned by AlgaEnergy uses microalgae in their skin care products, with their patented Plankton7® extract containing active compounds from multiple algal species said to have individually beneficial effects on the face and skin. Other brands that have recently begun harnessing the power of algae and their extracts include Estée Lauder, ELEMIS, and Murad, with many citing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and hydrating properties. Our Solution: There are challenges that must be addressed before algae can be used to their full potential, including strict regulatory controls to ensure they are safe for use. We provide bespoke testing services for novel cosmetic formulations, ensuring the impact they have on the physical, chemical and microbiomic characteristics of the skin is desirable. Once these restrictions have been met and overcome, there is little doubt that the full scope of algae’s capacity for both cosmetic and other industrial applications will be uncovered. References: David Wang, H-M., Li, X-C., Lee, D-J., Chang, J-S., Potential biomedical applications of marine algae, Bioresource Technology (2017), doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2017.05.198 Freitas MV, Pacheco D, Cotas J, Mouga T, Afonso C, Pereira L. Red Seaweed Pigments from a Biotechnological Perspective. Phycology . 2022; 2(1):1-29. https://doi.org/10.3390/phycology2010001 Jesumani V, Du H, Aslam M, Pei P, Huang N. Potential Use of Seaweed Bioactive Compounds in Skincare-A Review. Mar Drugs. 2019 Dec 6;17(12):688. doi: 10.3390/md17120688. PMID: 31817709; PMCID: PMC6950024. Kalasariya, Haresh & Pereira, Leonel. (2022). Dermo-Cosmetic Benefits of Marine Macroalgae-Derived Phenolic Compounds. Applied Sciences. 2022. 11954. 10.3390/app122311954.
- What is Conscious Beauty?
Conscious beauty is an emerging practice within the cosmetic space that places greater emphasis on the sustainability of a company and what it does to promote eco-friendly and ethical business practices, rather than its label or quick and easy-to-use ingredients. What we know: The clean beauty market is projected to increase up to $22 billion by 2024 (Statista, 2023), with skincare, haircare and cosmetics being the largest shareholders in the market. The global market value for natural cosmetics and skincare is expected to increase to roughly 59 billion dollars by 2031 (Statista, 2022). Consumer attitudes reflect market changes, with 43 percent of US millennials preferring natural skincare alternatives, and 55% of Gen Z respondents from the UK considering themselves ethical or sustainable consumers (Statista, 2023). Natural formulations help better nourish and feed the beneficial bacteria of the skin’s microbiome. E.g. Lactobacillus probiotics that secrete chemicals to prevent infection and inflammation, vitamin C that promotes a slightly acidic environment favoured by the skin’s microbiota, and ceramides that act as a food source for the microbes to promote skin health and vitality (Delanghe et al., 2021). Industry impact & potential: Companies that have embraced this philosophy of natural, organic and conscious beauty include: Neutrogena, Natura, and Dove, seen as the most sustainable beauty brand by the majority of Gen Z’s from Germany (51%), Brazil (70%), and the U.S. (54%), respectively. These brands emphasise ingredient transparency, cruelty free testing, reducing waste, and responsible sourcing of ingredients, actions that are favoured by a large proportion of the green consumer market. Our Solution: 77% of consumers state they would avoid buying products from brands found to be greenwashing or attempting to hide unsustainable business practices, highlighting the importance of honesty and transparency with consumers. (NIQ, 2023). Lack of ingredient transparency can negatively affect the skin by causing allergies and contact dermatitis, or even dysbiosis of the skin’s microbiome to trigger other conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema) and acne (Tran et al., 2022; Huang et al., 2023; Slomski 2022; Daniells 2023). Sequential has partnered with dozens of key players in the cosmetic market to help them deliver the high-quality products they promise their consumers. Our novel invivo microbiome testing platform, combined with our comprehensive microbiome database, is able to independently test and certify the quality of your product, making sure it meets consumer needs and expectations for skin health. We also offer a variety of personalised solutions to target areas of priority for your formulation, so you can make the most of your clean and natural brand. References: Daniells, Stephen. "Lactobio Q&A: ‘Products that focus on the skin microbiome could revolutionize the way we approach skin care’." Global Food , 2 Oct. 2023, p. NA. Gale OneFile: Health and Medicine , link.gale.com/apps/doc/A767533026/HRCA?u=anon~82f03388&sid=googleScholar&xid=6d46450c . Accessed 2 Aug. 2024. Delanghe L, Spacova I, Van Malderen J, Oerlemans E, Claes I, Lebeer S. The role of lactobacilli in inhibiting skin pathogens. Biochem Soc Trans. 2021 Apr 30;49(2):617-627. doi: 10.1042/BST20200329. PMID: 33704415. Huang, C., Zhuo, F., Han, B. et al. The updates and implications of cutaneous microbiota in acne. Cell Biosci 13 , 113 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1186/s13578-023-01072-w NIQ. (2023). Consumer behavior and greenwashing. NielsenIQ . Retrieved from https://nielseniq.com/global/en/insights/2023/consumer-behavior-and-greenwashing/ Slomski A. Postantibiotic Microbiome Therapeutic Reduces C difficile Recurrence. JAMA. 2022;327(12):1118. doi:10.1001/jama.2022.3753 Statista. (2022). Global market value for natural cosmetics and skincare from 2018 to 2031. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/statistics/946788/natural-cosmetics-global-market-value/ Statista. (2023). Clean beauty market size worldwide in 2020 and 2024. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/statistics/1095688/global-clean-beauty-market-size/ Tran J. M., Comstock J. R., Reeder M. J. (2022). Natural is not always better: The prevalence of allergenic ingredients in “clean” beauty products. Dermatitis , 33(3), 215–219. https://doi.org/10.1097/der.0000000000000863
- Age Before Beauty: The Rise and Dangers of Skincare Product Use in Young People
The rise of skincare-focused influencers on social media platforms like TikTok, Instagram and YouTube has led many children as young as 8 years old to adopt complex skincare routines. While seemingly harmless, experts are concerned about the risks of young people using skincare products without proper guidance and the absence of regulations to ensure safety. What We Know: Consumers under age 14 drive a large portion of skincare product sales, accounting for 49% of drugstore skincare product sales in 2023 and a third of "prestige" beauty sales. Despite acknowledging that some products are unsuitable for young people, few restrictions exist to prevent their purchase (Gecker, 2024). Dermatologists recommend that children's skincare be limited to gentle cleansers, moisturisers and sunscreen. However, many popular skincare brands promote active ingredient-containing products like retinol and hydroxy acids to their younger target markets, with colourful packaging and names like “baby facial.” While these ingredients are effective for ageing skin, they can significantly damage young skin, causing redness, peeling, burning and potentially leading to infections, acne, eczema and increased sensitivity (Rackham, 2024). In the US, a bill to ban the sale of anti-ageing skincare products to consumers under 13 failed last year, but advocates continue to push for similar restrictions. Meanwhile, in the EU, legislation passed in 2023 limits the concentration of retinol in over-the-counter products, and Sweden’s leading pharmacy, Apotek Hjartat, now requires parental consent for customers under 15 to purchase anti-aging skincare products (Gecker, 2024). Industry Impact and Potential: In recent years, social media has become a major platform for educational skin health content, with dermatologists and medical aestheticians sharing their expertise. However, the increasing dependency on social media for skincare advice is concerning, as it also hosts a significant amount of false information from unverified users and generalised advice often fails to address the unique needs of individual skin types (Joshi et al., 2022) . While interest in skincare, makeup and cosmetics among young people isn't new, targeted marketing and social media exposure are at unprecedented levels. This heightened focus on appearance raises concerns about potential downstream mental health effects. Ultimately, more rigorous control measures around brand marketing and product availability and suitability are necessary (Gecker, 2024). Our Solution: Sequential provides a tailored Microbiome Product Testing Solution for simple skincare products, utilising a database of over 20,000 microbiome samples and 4,000 ingredients. With a global network of over 10,000 testing participants, our expert team ensures that every formulation is thoroughly evaluated to develop safe and effective products while preserving microbiome integrity. References: Gecker, J. (2024) Young girls are using anti-aging products they see on social media. The - harm is more than skin deep. AP News. 31 August. https://apnews.com/article/influenced-skincare-routine-mental-health-f59bb09114ab93323e3a47197a1ad914 . Joshi, M., Korrapati, N.H., Reji, F., Hasan, A. & Kurudamannil, R.A. (2022) The Impact of Social Media on Skin Care: A Narrative Review. Lviv clinical bulletin. 18 June. https://lkv.biz/en/the-impact-of-social-media-on-skin-care-a-narrative-review/ . Rackham, A. (2024) Growing skincare use by children is dangerous, say dermatologists. BBC News. 27 January. https://www.bbc.com/news/health-67993618 .
- Halitosis and the Microbiome: What Is The Surprising Connection Behind Your Breath?
Halitosis is commonly known as bad breath, and they are made up of very complex substances with various odors. Halitosis, which impacts conversations and human relationships, has caused numerous personal and social problems. This unpleasant condition is prevalent among both men and women, affecting people of all ages. Halitosis is the third most common reason for patients to seek dental care, following dental caries and periodontal disease. Therefore, understanding the relationship between halitosis and the oral microbiome is crucial. What we know: Halitosis results from volatile sulfur compounds (VSCs), which are unpleasant-smelling gases present in the breath air. These compounds are produced by oral bacteria acting on sulfur-containing substrates (de Barros et al ., 2024). The tongue coating, which contains food debris, desquamated epithelial cells, and blood cells, creates an ideal environment for bacteria that produce volatile sulfur compounds to thrive (Lee et al ., 2023). The most active producers of hydrogen sulfide are Gram-negative anaerobic bacteria such as Prophyromonas gingivalis , Treponema denticola , and Tannerella forsythia (Lee et al ., 2023). Studies have shown that people with halitosis have a more diverse microbiome than those without halitosis. The main bacteria related to halitosis are Prevotella , Alloprevotella , Leptotrichia , Peptostreptococcus , and Stomatobaculum (Ye et al ., 2019). A decrease in tongue coating thickness has been linked to a reduction in the amounts of Porphyromonas gingivalis and Fusobacterium nucleatum (Patil et al ., 2022). Using a tongue scraper for cleaning resulted in a 75% reduction in VSCs (Lee et al ., 2023). A study had shown that probiotics such as Lactobacillus salivarius , Lactobacillus reuteri , Streptococcus salivarius , and Weissella cibaria can effectively alleviate halitosis in the short term, up to 4 weeks (Huang et al ., 2022). Industry impact & potential: The global market for halitosis treatment products is expected to grow due to the rising awareness and an increasing demand for oral care solutions. Further studies need to be done to identify long term solutions for halitosis treatment. Our solution: Sequential conducts comprehensive microbiome analysis not just for the skin, but also for the oral, scalp, and vaginal microbiomes. We perform in vivo testing to evaluate the efficacy of brands' products in maintaining and promoting a healthy microbiome. After testing, we provide certifications that confirm your products are microbiome-friendly. Reference: de Barros Motta P, Gonçalves MLL, Gallo JMAS, Sobral APT, Motta LJ, Santos EM, de Andrade DJC, Duran CCG, Fernandes KPS, Mesquita-Ferrari RA, Horliana ACRT, Bussadori SK. Evaluation of the Oral Microbiome before and after Treatments for Halitosis with Photodynamic Therapy and Probiotics-Pilot Study. Healthcare (Basel). 2024 May 30;12(11):1123. doi: 10.3390/healthcare12111123. PMID: 38891198; PMCID: PMC11172044. Huang N, Li J, Qiao X, Wu Y, Liu Y, Wu C, Li L. Efficacy of probiotics in the management of halitosis: a systematic review and meta-analysis. BMJ Open. 2022 Dec 20;12(12):e060753. doi: 10.1136/bmjopen-2022-060753. PMID: 36600415; PMCID: PMC9809225. Lee YH, Hong JY. Oral microbiome as a co-mediator of halitosis and periodontitis: a narrative review. Front Oral Health. 2023 Aug 31;4:1229145. doi: 10.3389/froh.2023.1229145. PMID: 37719278; PMCID: PMC10500072. Patil P, Patil L, Triveni MG, Usha GV, Shah R, Kumar ABT. Efficacy of antimicrobial photodynamic therapy on the tongue surface in the management of halitosis - real-time polymerase chain reaction analysis. Photodiagnosis Photodyn Ther. 2022 Sep;39:102989. doi: 10.1016/j.pdpdt.2022.102989. Epub 2022 Jul 2. PMID: 35792253. Ye W, Zhang Y, He M, Zhu C, Feng XP. Relationship of tongue coating microbiome on volatile sulfur compounds in healthy and halitosis adults. J Breath Res. 2019 Nov 19;14(1):016005. doi: 10.1088/1752-7163/ab47b4. PMID: 31553956.
- Acne Advances: Are Biofilm-Targeting Treatments the Way Forward?
Acne vulgaris, affecting up to 97% of adolescents globally, is a widespread skin condition. Recent advancements in treatment are focusing on innovative topical products that specifically target the biofilm formation of Cutibacterium acnes , the primary bacterium linked to acne. What we know: Acne is characterised by increased sebum production, which leads to inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules or nodules) primarily on the face, back and chest. While C. acnes is linked to acne, its exact role is unclear due to its widespread presence in both healthy and acne-affected skin (Cavallo et al ., 2022). C. acnes strains are classified into six phylotypes: IA1, IA2, IB, IC, II and III, each associated with different body distributions, clinical conditions, antimicrobial susceptibility and inflammatory properties. The IA1 phylotype is predominantly found in moderate to severe acne and is notably more virulent, suggesting that the dominance of IA1 strains in acne patients may indicate a dysbiotic shift linked to microenvironmental changes within the follicle (Cavallo et al. , 2022). Biofilm production by specific C. acnes phylotypes is linked to colonisation of the pilosebaceous unit, potentially causing a homeostatic imbalance in the skin microbiome. Biofilms in acne follicles lead to persistent bacterial presence and relapse after antibiotic treatment, indicating a strong connection to biofilm-related colonisation. While biofilm is crucial for C. acnes persistence during antibiotic therapy, the factors promoting early adhesion and biofilm formation remain unidentified (Cavallo et al ., 2022). Industry impact and potential: All C. acnes strains can form biofilm, but phylotype IA1 is the most effective at doing so. Research has shown that IA1 strains exhibit enhanced biofilm formation capabilities, including greater adhesion, increased biomass production, and a higher degree of antibiotic tolerance compared to other phylotypes (Cavallo et al ., 2022). @Vytrus Biotech has introduced Quora Noni™, a groundbreaking product featuring anti-quorum sensing molecules derived from plant stem cells. This innovative treatment targets acne by inhibiting the formation of virulent biofilms. Dubbed "the microbiome communication hacker," Quora Noni™ disrupts the communication between the skin microbiome and epidermal cells, delivering an effective bacteriostatic and anti-biofilm effect against C. acnes. Our solution: At Sequential, we specialise in comprehensive Microbiome Product Testing tailored to meet your specific goals in formulating products, such as acne treatment and prevention strategies. Our expertise and customised services empower businesses to innovate confidently in developing topical solutions. Additionally, we facilitate microbiome studies to ensure these products maintain microbiome integrity, promoting efficacy and compatibility for healthier skin. References: Cavallo, I., Sivori, F., Truglio, M., De Maio, F., Lucantoni, F., Cardinali, G., Pontone, M., Bernardi, T., Sanguinetti, M., Capitanio, B., Cristaudo, A., Ascenzioni, F., Morrone, A., Pimpinelli, F. & Di Domenico, E.G. (2022) Skin dysbiosis and Cutibacterium acnes biofilm in inflammatory acne lesions of adolescents. Scientific Reports. 12 (1), 21104. doi:10.1038/s41598-022-25436-3.
- How Do Chemical Peels Disrupt or Enhance the Skin Microbiome?
Chemical peels are dermatological procedures that involve applying a chemical solution to the skin, thereby exfoliating the top layers to allow cell turnover and enhance skin texture and tone. The process involves using different types of acids or chemical agents that can vary in strength, leading to varying depths of peel, from superficial to deep. The procedure needs to be carried out more than once to get beneficial results, and recent research has begun to explore their impact on the skin microbiome. What we know: Chemical peels can reduce sebum production and possess antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and comedolytic properties (Măgerușan et al ., 2023). 30% Supramolecular Salicylic Acid Peel have shown to decrease certain bacterial populations such as Staphylococcus and Propionibacterium (Shao et al ., 2023). A study had found out that the immediate application of the chemical peel, caused a disruption in the skin's microbial composition. However, over a period of several weeks, the skin microbiota had rebalanced to levels similar or better than pre-treatment levels, indicating a temporary disturbance followed by a recovery phase (Bhardwaj et al ., 2024). It was seen that immediately after the peel, C. acnes decreased by 60%. However, within two weeks, these counts began to return to normal levels, reaching baseline levels by the fourth week (Bhardwaj et al ., 2024). Although the peel initially compromises the skin barrier, the recovery phase showed an improvement in barrier function, potentially due to the regrowth of a balanced microbiome (Bhardwaj et al ., 2024). Industry impact & potential: Post-peel treatments should be designed to restore and support the skin microbiome. Further studies need to be done to delve deeper into the interaction between chemical peels and skin microbiome. Our solution: Sequential is at the forefront of integrating microbiome science into skincare. Our cutting-edge research aims to analyse and understand how skincare products interact with the skin microbiome. By collaborating with us and our skincare professionals we can advise you on treatments that not only enhance skin appearance but also maintain microbiome health. Reference: Bhardwaj V, Handler MZ, Mao J, Azadegan C, Panda PK, Breunig HG, Wenskus I, Diaz I, König K. A novel professional-use synergistic peel technology to reduce visible hyperpigmentation on face: Clinical evidence and mechanistic understanding by computational biology and optical biopsy. Exp Dermatol. 2024 Apr;33(4):e15069. doi: 10.1111/exd.15069. PMID: 38568090. Măgerușan ȘE, Hancu G, Rusu A. A Comprehensive Bibliographic Review Concerning the Efficacy of Organic Acids for Chemical Peels Treating Acne Vulgaris. Molecules. 2023 Oct 22;28(20):7219. doi: 10.3390/molecules28207219. PMID: 37894698; PMCID: PMC10608815. Shao X, Chen Y, Zhang L, Zhang Y, Ariyawati A, Chen T, Chen J, Liu L, Pu Y, Li Y, Chen J. Effect of 30% Supramolecular Salicylic Acid Peel on Skin Microbiota and Inflammation in Patients with Moderate-to-Severe Acne Vulgaris. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2023 Jan;13(1):155-168. doi: 10.1007/s13555-022-00844-5. Epub 2022 Nov 9. PMID: 36350527; PMCID: PMC9823178.
- Are Antibiotics Waging War on Your Skin Microbiome?
Antibiotics are a class of antimicrobial substances designed to target and eliminate bacteria. They play a crucial role in modern medicine as the primary agents used to fight bacterial infections. These powerful medications are indispensable for both treating and preventing bacterial diseases, making them one of the most important tools in combating infectious diseases. What we know: Antibiotic treatment decreases the bacterial density and alters the bacterial composition in skin (Zhang et al ., 2014). Subjects treated with doxycycline 100mg and trimethoprim/sulfamethoxazole showed more significant alterations in skin microbial communities than those that did not receive antibiotics (Jo et al ., 2021). Oxytetracycline reduced the diversity of the skin microbiome. Diversity reduction often indicates a disruption in the natural balance of microbial communities (Pereira et al ., 2024). Exposure to antibiotics often leads to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria within the skin microbiome (Jo et al ., 2021). The skin microbiome has the ability to recover after antibiotic exposure, but the recovery process can be slow and incomplete. Some bacterial communities may never return to their original state, potentially leading to long-term health impacts (Jeanette et al ., 2017). Industry impact & potential: Studies show that after antibiotic treatment, resistant strains can dominate, posing a challenge for future treatments (Jo et al ., 2021). Companies can innovate by creating targeted antibiotics that minimize disruption to the beneficial microbiota or by developing products that support microbiome recovery post-antibiotic treatment The cosmetic industry can leverage this knowledge to create skincare products that promote a healthy microbiome, potentially reducing the need for antibiotics by enhancing the skin's natural defense mechanisms Our solution: At Sequential, we have the first-ever targeted skin panels, specifically designed to address key skin concerns. These panels, a breakthrough in microbiome research, reflect years of dedicated work by our scientists to identify the microbial factors behind various skin conditions. Unlike traditional microbiome research tools, our panels allow for precise, focused analysis on any specific skin concern. Reference: Jeanette M Carlson, Annie B Leonard, Embriette R Hyde, Joseph F Petrosino & Todd P Primm (2017) Microbiome disruption and recovery in the fish Gambusia affinis following exposure to broad-spectrum antibiotic, Infection and Drug Resistance, , 143-154, DOI: 10.2147/IDR.S129055 Jo JH, Harkins CP, Schwardt NH, Portillo JA; NISC Comparative Sequencing Program; Zimmerman MD, Carter CL, Hossen MA, Peer CJ, Polley EC, Dartois V, Figg WD, Moutsopoulos NM, Segre JA, Kong HH. Alterations of human skin microbiome and expansion of antimicrobial resistance after systemic antibiotics. Sci Transl Med. 2021 Dec 22;13(625):eabd8077. doi: 10.1126/scitranslmed.abd8077. Epub 2021 Dec 22. PMID: 34936382; PMCID: PMC8878148. Pereira, Ana & Brown, Anya & Strobel, Davis & Soares, Marta & Xavier, Raquel & Apprill, Amy & Sikkel, Paul. (2024). Effects of two common antibiotics on the skin microbiome of ornamental reef fishes: Implications for manipulative experiments in microbial dynamics. Aquaculture, Fish and Fisheries. 4. 10.1002/aff2.162. Zhang M, Jiang Z, Li D, Jiang D, Wu Y, Ren H, Peng H, Lai Y. Oral antibiotic treatment induces skin microbiota dysbiosis and influences wound healing. Microb Ecol. 2015 Feb;69(2):415-21. doi: 10.1007/s00248-014-0504-4. Epub 2014 Oct 10. PMID: 25301498.
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