Skincare for the Scalp: Is Treating the Scalp Microbiome the Solution to Greasy Hair?

Excess scalp sebum production - which causes greasy or oily hair roots - is closely linked to microbiome dysbiosis, sensitivity of the scalp and other scalp conditions, such as hair loss (alopecia). Emerging research suggests that optimising the balance and diversity of this microbiome through targeted cosmetic products may treat and prevent sebum buildup, leading to improved overall hair health.

What We Know:

• The scalp microbiome refers to the diverse community of microorganisms that inhabit the scalp. It is shaped by both intrinsic factors (age, sex, genetics and diet) as well as extrinsic factors (pollution, UV radiation and cosmetic use). Its unique environment - characterised by sebum, as well as oxygen levels, moisture, pH and a high density of hair follicles - fosters the growth of microorganisms, including Malassezia yeasts and bacteria such as Staphylococcus capitis, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Cutibacterium acnes (Townsend, Hazan & Dell’Acqua, 2023).

• Excess scalp sebum can lead to a sensitive, flaky scalp, as well as dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, which are linked to inflammation, impaired scalp barrier function and increased growth of lipophilic microbes like Malassezia (Townsend, Hazan & Dell’Acqua, 2023).

Industry Impact and Potential:

• Products designed to address scalp dysbiosis, excess sebum, irritation and flakiness can help rebalance oil levels, increase hydration and reduce irritation, without disrupting the scalp's pH or microbiome. Gentle formulations using appropriate ingredients are key to improving overall scalp health and reducing oily hair. For example, ingredients like sarcosine and jojoba ester beads help reduce sebum without disrupting the microbiome, promoting a healthier environment for hair growth (Townsend, Hazan & Dell’Acqua, 2023).

• Patchoul’Up™ by Givaudan takes a microbiome-focused approach to scalp care. Formulated with Phenethyl Alcohol and Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf/Stem Extract, it was tested in a 0.5% shampoo over 28 days in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. The results showed a 22% increase in beneficial Cutibacterium, a 34% boost in sebum, and up to a 31% reduction in white flakes, indicating better scalp hydration and balance. With its plant-based composition, the ingredient helps restore a healthy scalp and reduce dryness, flakiness, and microbial imbalance. Moreover, balancing the scalp microbiome can help regulate sebum production, indicating that microbiome-targeted care may also offer a solution for managing greasy hair.

Our Solution:

With a vast database of over 20,000 microbiome samples and 4,000 ingredients, and a global network of more than 10,000 testing participants, Sequential offers comprehensive services for evaluating product impacts and formulations. Our customisable microbiome studies provide real-world testing environments, while our formulation support ensures products maintain microbiome integrity, making us your ideal partner to investigate microbiome-targeting products.

References:

Townsend, N., Hazan, A. & Dell’Acqua, G. (2023) New Topicals to Support a Healthy Scalp While Preserving the Microbiome: A Report of Clinical and in Vitro Studies. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 16 (10 Suppl 1), S4–S11.